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Mountain bikes with batteries may not look hip but they bring wondrous landscapes within reach of many, and this region next to Grenoble is a great place to try them I wanted gentler slopes and a serene alternative to the soaring, rugged landscape of the Alps. I found it in the Vercors Massif, less than an hour from Grenoble airport, where Ryanair’s new thrice-weekly summer route is opening up the region’s grassy pistes. But I also discovered a paradise for mountain biking, hiking and roller-skiing... In a valley about a third of the way down the 60km-long massif between Valence...

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